A guide to breaking the rules, mixing it up, and making the suit your own—no necktie required.
Suits have been around for centuries, evolving through countless iterations—some timeless, others best left in the archives. The classic jacket-and-trouser combo hasn’t disappeared; it’s just had a few glow-ups over the years.
When I think of suits, I picture sharp shoulder pads, skinny ties, aggressively pointy collars, billowy pleated pants, and penny loafers so shiny you could check your teeth in them. It’s a very specific vibe—somewhere between Wall Street and your uncle’s wedding in ‘86.
Today, the suit has been reimagined in all kinds of cuts, fabrics, and patterns. But what really stands out is how guys are wearing them. Sure, there’s still a time and place for the full “dressed-to-the-nines” look—but these days, the suit is way more laid-back and free-flowing.
Got a favorite beat-to-hell graphic tee? Toss it under a blazer. Feel like swapping the tie for a cozy crewneck sweatshirt? Do it. Just scored some vintage denim on eBay? Dress it up with a suit jacket and call it a power move. The rules are gone—and honestly, good riddance.
Now that you can wear suits both formally and casually, it’s smart to have at least two in your rotation. One should be a hardwearing, do-it-all option that adds some edge to linen button-downs and polos. The other? Something lighter and breezier for summer weddings, rooftop soirées, or any event that demands “festive attire” (whatever that means).
Check out a few ways I’m styling suits this season. Hopefully, it’ll take the guesswork out of what to wear to the office—or at least stop you from spiraling every time a wedding invite hits your inbox.
The Workwear Suit: How to Suit Up Without the Stiffness
Just like a formal suit, the fabric makes all the difference—but when you’re aiming for something more laid-back, reach for cotton twill or cotton canvas. Think of it as the suit equivalent of a denim jacket: tough, breathable, and doesn’t flinch at a spin cycle.
Take the Foundation Sportcoat, for example. It’s cut from a beefy 8-ounce cotton twill and garment-washed for that broken-in feel right off the rack. It’s unlined, which means it’ll mold naturally to your shoulders. Three exterior patch pockets give it a chore coat vibe, and two roomy interior pockets are perfect for stashing a Field Notes notebook, a pen, or whatever bits of EDC you carry that makes you feel prepared for an impromptu adventure—or at least a coffee run.
It comes in navy, khaki, and olive—I went with olive. Why? Because it’s one of my favorite neutrals and, frankly, it doesn’t get the summer love it deserves. Sure, it’s traditionally a fall color, but olive looks just as sharp in July as it does in October.
I paired the jacket with The Jack in a navy linen plaid. It’s featherlight and plays nicely against the solid olive—plus, navy and olive is always a banger of a combo. For another take, try The Button Down Polo. It balances olive beautifully, and when paired with the matching Foundation Democratic pants and some sand-colored chukkas, you’ve got a look that’s classic, simple, and—most importantly—comfortable.
And since the polo’s got a full placket, don’t be afraid to go full vacation energy and unbutton it poolside. It’s got range. Want to give the outfit more of a sporty edge? Toss on The Après Crew to add a touch of athletic flavor without going full tracksuit. Throw on a tee or an oxford underneath and boom—you’re ready for whatever the day throws at you.
The Seersucker Suit: Cool, Calm, and Suitably Collected
For weddings, summer solstice parties, or any outdoor event where the sun’s got beef with your body temperature, breathable fabric isn’t optional—it’s a non-negotiable. Enter: the Stevens Sportcoat and matching pants. They’re made from a cotton-linen-seersucker blend that keeps you cool in more ways than one. It’s half-lined for breathability, and the sleeves are lined with polyester so you’re not wrestling your jacket every time you throw it on.
I paired the suit with a blue oxford shirt—it’s a nice break from the usual white and plays well with navy. Speaking of navy: it’s the number-one suit color every guy should have in his arsenal. Why? One, black can feel a little funeral-y. Two, grey sometimes screams, “I just got out of a finance meeting.” And three, navy is the stylish middle ground that works for nearly any occasion, bonus: it hides spills better than any Tide To Go Stain pens. And let’s be real—navy just looks damn debonair on everyone.
I finished the look off with a pair of sand suede chukkas. Pro tip: These can be your summer MVPs. They’re classic, surprisingly versatile (yes, even with a suit or a Canadian tuxedo), and they feel like sneakers’ more sophisticated cousin.
Written by Leon Hedgepeth
Leon Hedgepeth is a menswear writer and market editor based in Cincinnati, Ohio. His work has appeared in Huckberry, New York Magazine’s The Strategist, Sprezza, GQ, and The Wall Street Journal. He has over a decade of experience in the fashion and communications industry. When he’s not writing, he enjoys spending time with his family, brewing local coffee, and digging through the latest record releases. You can reach him at leonhedgepeth93@gmail.com.
